It turned out many times that I am usually not the kind of traveler who returns to the same place twice – to say something that fits to today’s topic, as Greek philosopher Heraclitus said ‘You cannot step into the same river twice’. Following this principle, I had been looking for something new and different all the time, until I started to value the moment and realized how great it can be as well to reexperience things. 

As time passes, we all change, and we will surely have different (and new) impressions, even if we explore a place we think we know. Of course, I had already been to Athens nearly seven years ago, and back then I had a chance to see the most famous sights inside out: Acropolis, Agora, Areopagus, the Temple of Zeus, the Museum of Archeology, the National Parliament, Syntagma square, the university (Panepistimio) the National Garden with Zappeion, Mount Lycabettus, both olympic stadiums and many other wonders.

Athens is a city of thousands of years of history and of millions of people living there, so no matter if we want to get know the old or the modern city, it is not enough to spend only a couple of days or weeks there. When I decided to return to Athens, my main goal was not only to follow my nostalgic feelings towards the city, but also to see it from a different point of view. Taking into account that this time I had a Greek host there who was local and knew nearly everything about Athens, I really reached my aim to extend my horizons and meet a new face of the capital of Greece.

My residence was luckily in the heart of the centre, close to Agora, so I had the chance to meet another neighborhood called Thissio: the name of the quarter comes from the name of Theseus, the mythical hero who killed the Minotaur of Crete and who was of Athenian origin. Theseus even has a statue near Nymph’s Hill and another archeological site, the Temple of Hephaestus, god of fire, craftsmen and blacksmiths, while not so far from there you can find the Church of Agia Marina, which really shows that ancient and contemporary, pagan and Christian can coexist and shape the city’s image hand in hand.

My first evening let me to discover this pleasant and peaceful neighborhood, which gave me the impressions of a calm town or suburbs, even though just a couple of kilometers away there were crowded areas full of tourists like Monastiraki. That is why I have always enjoyed more to visit places with locals: their knowledge and experiences lead you to places you would have probably never thought about. As my host said, she did not consider me a tourist, but rather her guest, which I felt in each moment, and the legendary Greek hospitality never let me down this time either.

This is how we went to the Philopappos Hill above Agia Marina, which is a large, green area full of olives, pines and rocks creating a typical, gorgeous Mediterranean landscape. The hill was more like a forest than a park to me, and during the long walk we had there, I had an extraordinary view on the city, full of pale white houses and rooftops. It was interesting that many years ago I saw this hill from the other side, from the feet of Acropolis, and this time I looked back to the famous peristyle of Partheon from Philopappos, which gave me the feeling for a second that my past and future selves were watching each other and the two experiences just got connected.

The hill is also the home of the National Observatory, which is no wonder taking into account what kind of incredible stars can be seen at night from this amazing place. You know, there must have been a reason that Greeks had all of those tales and myths and invented their famous constellations. In the meantime, we passed by the cave which is the alleged prison of Socrates – the philosopher who was sentenced to die because some of his statements were considered blasphemous. Namely, he said for example that idols are not the gods themselves, thus his enemies accused him, and in the end he had to drink poison made of hemlock.

There was another interesting moment when we bumped into a traditional Greek wedding ceremony performed by an Orthodox priest. I noticed during this walk that people really enjoy hanging out in the woods, alone or in couples, with or without dogs and it was nice to see that a place which was eventually a forest was so full of locals. Finally, we went to a view spot which was perfect to observe the sunset, and while we could see the distant port of Piraeus and the shore, it was also possible to discover the Saronic Islands far away – including the most famous one, Salamis, where Athenians won an important sea battle over the Persian fleet.

Another key philosopher, the apprentice of Socrates is also related to Athens: he is Plato who established the first academy in the world what the later academies are named after. Plato’s Academy was a school for philosophers to discuss science for many centuries until it was shut down forever by Byzantine emperor Justinian. The place itself was named eventually after a Greek mythical hero, Academus, and there used to be olives and woods there before the school was established. This area was so sacred and respected even by Spartans that they never attacked the Academy when they came to besiege Athens. 

To be honest, the place is a little far from the centre, because obviously, it was meant to be outside of the ancient Athens to give the philosophers a chance to think in peace, surrounded by nature. Today it is a half an hour walk from the neighborhood of Metaxourgeio: a former working-class district with a lot of car workshops and hotels today (actually I had my very first accommodation in Greece nearby). The Academy is today in ruins and surrounded by an open park, but I really recommend to walk there, because it is indeed very inspiring to step in the footprints of the ancient thinkers in a way.

I need to mention another small hill in the heart of the city, Strefi Hill, which also provides a wonderful panorama to the endless sea of the white buildings of Athens. The same area includes an important scene of the modern Greek history: it is the campus of the Technical University of Athens, also known as Polytechnio. The hall and the facade of the main building is a great example of classical Greek architecture, but it is not why the university is important for Greece. 

Until 1974 there was a military dictatorship in the country, but as time was passing, the public was more and more upset and frustrated about that. The students of the Technical University decided to broadcast statements against the military junta through a pirate station which in the end led to uprisings at the university. When the government learnt about it, army tanks and soldiers were sent to the university killing and arresting many of the students. Some faculties of the university, like the one of architecture still exist today, but the place is also a memorial spot in the honor of modern Greek democracy and fighting for human rights.

As usual, I would like to introduce you to Greek gastronomy more and show you what is beyond gyros, souvlaki and moussaka. Well, seafood, apart from fish, is a bit less popular here than in Latin countries, but meals related to shepherding, like lamb is very widespread and typical all over Greece. Mostly it is prepared or served with lemon, and one particular dish made of lamb is traditionally to be eaten by hands. In terms of bakery products, a chicken pie or oil pie may be great for breakfast or as a companion for a stew, especially since you do not always get potato, rice or any side dish for the meat.

I also had the chance to try real tzatziki which is of yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and so on and I can assure you that it is way better than what is sold in other countries in fast food stores. Another side dish I did not know was almyra: the green parts of saltwort which plant feels the best close to rocky sea shores. It did not look very convincing, but the taste was genius and it perfectly fits to many meals. A similar side dish was vlita (amaranth), which is easier to be found in restaurants and is tasty as well, but maybe less delicious compared to almyra. 

And a few things about drinks: maybe you have heard that the famous ice coffee, frappé, which was invented by a Greek guy, Dimitris Vakondios in Thessaloniki in the 1950s by chance. Later became a national drink for Greeks, consumed mainly as a soft drink for the summer. 

Of course, everyone knows ouzo, the liquor made of anise that most people either love or hate, and the Greek brand called Metaxa – apparently, as my host said, Greeks drink this last one only after funerals, so she did not understand that foreigner drink it even as a cocktail ingredient.

Whether you are into drinking a Greek wine, beer, ouzo or tsipuro (fruit liquor, a bit like the Italian limoncello), bars usually provide you some snacks, just as tapas are typical all around Spain. Fortunately, many places in Athens offer you live music or you have the chance to dance even open air or in the pedestrian streets: apart from Plaka and Monastriaki, which are more for daily tourism.

Particularly Peristeri and Psyri are the neighborhoods where you will be able to have some fun in the evening, but wherever you go, the never-ending charm and beauty of this ancient yet vivid city will surely be in the air. When I visited Greece for the first time I was doubting whether I would have a chance to return, yet it happened. Apart from the fact that I have understood that it is really worth revisiting and reexperiencing even the same places, my other lesson can be expressed through a common phrase, which may be a cliché but so true: never say never.